Friday, January 4, 2008
I decided to gather up all my boards scattered around the house and put them all in one place. Damn!! I didn't know I had so many boards still. Once I put them in the racks in my back yard I started to look at each board and remember all the surf trips. Each board had a memory, some a long time ago and a few not so long ago. I still have a board from the 70's. Damn I'm getting old!! I even still have the tow in board so I can feel like my balls are still made of steel. Funny thing is the only boards that get any use these days are the SUP boards. The other day just for the hell of it I took out my short board and as soon as I caught the wave and stood up it felt really wrong. I am a third generation surfer and my grandfather would roll over in his grave if he heard me say that. Oh well, what ever feels right.